Basque-ing in the North of Spain

Hey everyone! Mari here reporting from Bilbao, Euskadi, Spain!

First let me say that I am having such an amazing experience, and I am really grateful for all of the support from family, friends, and the CISLA staff. Thank you so much!

My internship is with the Sabino Arana Fundazioa which is a national archive preserving historical memory, and mostly dealing with themes related to the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939). I work as an archivist. My hours before were 9am until 2pm and then 3:30pm until 6pm, but since the Foundation changed to their summer schedule this past Monday I now work from 8:30am until 2pm! In the morning, from 8:30 until 12, I work with historical documentation. My main task is transferring physical on-paper information into the online database. From 12pm until 2pm I work on editing photos related to the archives that I deal with in the morning. I have been mostly working with the documentation regarding one man, Vicente Egia, who died in a battle and had a huge catholic funeral in Barcelona, in order to help the Foundation prepare for an event that they will be hosting in October. I have also been transferring communications between various officials from the Falange (Franco’s Party) into the database, and recently have also begun putting “Fichas” into the online archive. Fichas are little cards documenting the names, birthdays, locations, and other bits of information about individuals. I am finding my work really interesting and rewarding, and all of my bosses/coworkers/managers are very helpful, supportive, and kind.

Here is the link to the Sabino Arana Foundation’s website.

Below are some photos (taken by yours truly) of what I have seen during my time off!

The Guggenheim Museum is one of the main attractions for tourists and locals alike here in Bilbao. I am lucky enough to get to pass the beautiful building every day on the way to my internship and back! I visited the museum and looked at the beautiful art the other day! However, as it turns out, my favorite piece of art was actually the part of the building itself, which is best seen from the outside. Go figure! There was one really cool exhibit, though, where you basically walk through these giant iron sculptures that twist and turn. They are supposed to make you feel like you are walking through time, according to the audioguide that I listened to (in Spanish, of course). I am not sure how it works, exactly, but the effect was definitely similar to what I imagine time-traveling must be like; the sculptures twist and turn, like a labyrinth, and you never really know when you will reach the middle of what you think, while traversing the maze, is probably a circle. Sometimes, however, the sculpture’s path spits you out on the other side of the room, and you become quite disoriented. I did, at least.

The two pictures above are examples of some of the delicious food available here in Bilbao. Euskadi in general is famous for its wide variety of fresh and delicious tapas/pinxos. My favorite, personally, is the tortilla de patata (above left), which is basically a thick omlette with potatoes and, sometimes, other fillings like jamón ibérico or pimientos. The tortilla, as well as most other types of tapas, is typically served with sliced bread and a drink of your choice. Many people eat tapas throughout the day, but the most common times for tapas, at least in Bilbao, seem to be from about 2:30pm until 3:30pm, and then again from 7:45pm until 9:30pm. On my walk home from my internship and when I walk around during dusk, which I love to do because the mountains surrounding the city are especially beautiful at that time of night, I have to swerve through crowds of people talking, laughing, and enjoying their food on the sidewalks either standing or at the few small tables that various tapas bars have placed outside of their doors! The photo on the right (above) is my favorite caffeinated drink here – the infamous “Café con Leche” (which literally means “coffee with milk”). It is delicious served either hot or cold, and although I prefer iced coffee in general it is quite difficult to find here. I often find myself asking for a cup of ice to have with my drink and getting confused looks from the servers or bartenders, who then bring me a glass with one ice cube in it and my steaming hot coffee. Sometimes, though, I am lucky and I find myself somewhere that actually serves the café con leche iced! It is always a nice surprise. Hot or cold, though, this drink is delicious with mini treats like the ones in the photo above! All of the food here is really good. Come to think of it, if I can find an affordable tapas tour in Bilbao, you can bet I will be signing up!

This photo is another piece of art that is outside of the Guggenheim! It is also by Jeff Koons and is entitled “Tulips.” I like it because despite its many different colors since it is reflective it looks different depending on how sunny or cloudy the weather is. (Sidenote: It is almost always cloudy in Bilbao.) Behind “Tulips” is La Salve Bridge, which is just one of a few beautiful, unique, and ornate bridges that connect one side of the river Nervión to the other. This particular bridge, unlike the other two that are in the center of the city, is accessible to cars, trucks, and busses, as well as pedestrians. I ran across it the other day and to be honest I did not realize how high up it is until I was on it. I also did not realize that it is entirely up-hill! But it was a good workout, and I saw some really cool views of the city! Also, slightly obscured but still visible in this photo, is “The Spider” or “Maman,” created by Louise Bourgeois. It is a giant bronze-colored sculpture that you can walk through and around, and the closer you get the more details you can see. The spider has eight spindly legs and actually has a large see-through pouch filled with what I believe are supposed to be eggs. It’s a true marvel.

Yesterday’s adventures in Portugalete and Santurxi

I took these photos yesterday while visiting the “Puente Colgante,” or “Bizkaia Bridge” in Portugalete. The Puente Colgante is a very tall bridge that connects Portugalete to Getxo, another small town outside Bilbao. You can see the bridge in the first two photos above. The third picture is of Getxo from the top of the Puente Colgante. It is very cool not only because of it’s height but also because it is bright red and because it has a little suspended car/bike/pedestrian ferry that brings cars/bikes/people from one side of the river to the other! I rode this ferry, as I mistakenly went to the other side of the river in order to get my ticket to ride the elevator to the top of the bridge and walk along the panoramic path, and then had to go back over the river in the little suspended ferry to get on the elevator.

Quick sidenote: There are actually elevators on both sides of the bridge so that you can take the elevator up on one side, walk across, go down on the other side, and then take the suspension car. However, when I arrived to the bridge, the store where you purchase tickets for the elevator was closed, and I was informed that the elevator was broken on that side and that I would have to cross. Upon crossing and buying my ticket I was told that it was actually that side’s elevator that was broken, so I would have to cross back and ascend the bridge from there. I was a little nervous to go up now having been told that both elevators were not functioning, but being adventurous and trusting, and having seen that five people were coming out of the elevator as I was arriving at it, I decided to take my chances and get on figuring it would be a good story later on either way (Sorry parents! I’m fine though don’t worry!). The views from the top of the bridge, once I finally did get up there, were spectacular! I could see Portugalete, Santurxi, Getxo, the River Nervión, the ocean, and the (at the time) clear sky. I walked from one side to the other, noting the signs telling me which town I was now in as I crossed, and stopping to ask a German tourist, first in Spanish and then in English, to take a photo of me. If you’re ever in town, I definitely would not miss this site. It is only twenty minutes away from Bilbao center by metro, and it is surely worth the trip!

Portugalete, like its neighboring Santurxi, is a small municipality outside of Bilbao proper. When I arrived it was a sunny, hot, beautiful day. As I was leaving the town, the weather was cloudy and muggy. I told you – it’s always cloudy! But I do not mind, I actually like the rain and the clouds and mist are always really beautiful on the mountains that surround the city.

The three towns that I have mentioned are all right on the ocean and also connect to the River, making them very important ports in their day. In fact, Portugalete, Getxo, and Santurxi all still have functioning ports. The one visible in the last photo (above) is the Port of Santurxi. Behind the port you can see the buildings of the town, as well as one of the many mountains that País Vasco is famous for.

This last photo is me at the top of the bridge (being #squintyeyed because it was sunny for once)!

Thank you all for reading and I hope that you are all having a great summer too. I can’t wait to hear about your adventures when we all get back!

“Hasta luego!” Or, as the Basques say, “agur!”